Archive for the Transgender category

Hot Diggity Hogg!

Just a couple of snaps which illustrate the sense of occasion created by Pam Hogg at last night’s showcase of her S/S 10 collection in the On/Off space occupying the car park underneath Somerset House during London Fashion Week.

 

//Alice Dellal models, Duggie Fields watches// 

With Pam’s signature geometric patterned Lycra designs being worn by everybody from Kanye West’s muse Amber Rose to Katie White of the Ting Tings, her deep musical roots and connections were underscored by the presence of Boy GeorgeRoisin MurphySiouxsie SuePaul Simonon, and Bobby Gillespie along with such friends and fans from Duggie Fields and Philip Sallon  to Kate Moross.

 

//Anouck Lepere in Pam Hogg bodysuit//

These photos – taken by Mrs G using her phone, she insists you know – hopefully convey the flavour of the event, which was accompanied by dry ice and a suitably bombastic soundtrack provided by the peerless Andrew Weatherall.

Viva La Hogg!

Pam Hogg riding high

Pam Hogg‘s re-entry into retail with a pop-up shop in Soho’s Newburgh Street – just a few doors away from the premises she inhabited in the thoroughfare in the late 80s and early 90s –  looks like a more enduring prospect than the four weeks it will remain open. 

//Outside 9 Newburgh Street on Tuesday night. Pic: Susie Bubble//

There is no doubt that the pop-up shop represents consolidation of the hard work Pam has put in over recent years re-establishing her name as a formidable fashion force (as covered in Chapter 30 of THE LOOK).

//Pippa Brooks with Pam Hogg and Mark Powell. Pic: Caz Facey//

With the crowd including friends wearing catsuits and other glamour-puss Hogg Couture designs, Pam’s ability to draw the widest variety of bods never ceases to amaze.

//Michael Kostiff and Pam inside the store. Pics: Pippa Brooks//

From celebrity offspring Peaches Geldof and Jaime Winstone through Nick Cave and Susie Bick to Pippa BrooksPrincess JuliaMark PowellPhil DirtboxSusie Bubble, Jefferson Hack and Anouk Lepere, Roisin Murphy,  Henry HollandDougie FieldsTerry de HavillandMichael KostiffJohnny Blue Eyes and THE LOOK, we were all there to pay homage to the wonder that is Pam.

//Screens with footage of Pam’s original Newburgh Street store// 

Her first show in over a decade at the recent London Fashion Week wowed journalists and the industry alike, and with Roisin, Siouxsie Sue and Kylie Minogue sporting her clothes on-stage and in videos, the sky seems to be the limit, even with the attention given to such fans as Thierry Henry’s ex-wife Claire Merry at the Star Trek premiere.

//Trademark rock & roll glamour-puss style. Pic: Susie Bubble// 

As well as the catsuits, dresses and tops, the pop up shop is stocking t-shirts, posters badges and signed CDs.

 

//Hogg homeware includes plates and mugs// 

Pam’s pop up shop is open for another three weeks. We urge you to get yourselves along.

Priceless gets The Dirty Three treatment

Check out the strange and wonderful clip put together by  Jack Dixon and Millie Harvey for THE LOOK Presents Priceless range.

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=qxocCEXvQoY">http://youtube.com/watch?v=qxocCEXvQoY</a>

We’re particularly delighted because the soundtrack is by THE LOOK favourites The Dirty Three: Jim White, Mick Turner and Warren Ellis. Can’t get enough of Wazzer.

Here he is during a performance in which one critic detected Ellis dancing “like a tramp trying to stamp out a fire”; the best gig THE LOOK witnessed this year, Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds at St Luke’s Church:

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=gch9tnPzFdk">http://youtube.com/watch?v=gch9tnPzFdk</a>
//THE LOOK and Nick Cave touch hands at 5.00// 

A few Priceless A/W 08 items are left; Antony Price is currently beavering away putting the finishing touches to S/S 09’s colourful capsule collection.

You may find what remains in stock here.   

Flamin’ Foster & Tara jacket: pure rock&roll provenance

The Flamin’ Groovies are among the most under-appreciated groups in rock&roll history, in terms of both their magnificent music and double-sharp style.


//The Flamin Groovies 1976: The Supersnazz//

The Groovies understood rock & roll swagger. Led by Cyril Jordan, they plundered the very best clothes shops of the 70s for stage gear:  Granny Takes A Trip in the King’s Road and Los AngelesJohnson & Johnson (“I still have a pinstripe teddy boy coat from there”, says Cyril) and Let It Rock.

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=lWXiWbnQATU">http://youtube.com/watch?v=lWXiWbnQATU</a>
//Slow Death: Let It Rock drape and studded leather 1972//  

THE LOOK witnessed the San Franciscans supported by The Ramones at the legendary (and sweltering) Roundhouse gig on The Fourth Of July 1976, apparently in the company of the punk-rock cognoscenti.  The only encounter which sticks in the memory is a bout of speed-fuelled aggression from an out-of-control Shane MacGowan.


//
Teenage Head: Scooped neck tees and tight pants// 

But The Roundhouse show was not to herald the much-deserved commercial breakthrough; as their manager at the time, the late lamented Greg Shaw, told me years later for In Their Own Write, the oncoming punk storm overshadowed the headline act that night.



//In Granny’s jackets and 
Wonder Workshop Elvis tee//

“When people saw The Ramones, lightbulbs went off, kind of like: ‘Aaah, this is how you do it’,” said Greg. “Everyone respected the Groovies, but we were obviously out of place there.”


//Jumpin’ In The Night: Chris Wilson in his red jacket// 

Which is a great shame, because the Groovies were armed with fantastic tunes, attitude to spare, and, as worn by Cyril Jordan that night, this amazing velvet jacket.

 

Cyril had it made the previous year by tailors Foster & Tara, who usually serviced Granny Takes A Trip, though the King’s Road store was at that time in disarray following the departures of Gene Krell and Marty Breslau.


//Back: Martin Cook, Tara Browne, Gary White. Front: David Vaughn, 
Dudley Edwards, Douglas Binder//

Foster & Tara was operated by the father-and-son team of Pops and Cliff Foster, and had been set up with Guinness heir Tara Browne, whose tragic death at the age of 21 in a car accident on December 18 1966 inspired The Beatles’ A Day In The Life.


//Tara Browne + Paul McCartney// 

There is a completely wild conspiracy website claiming that Paul McCartney actually died in the crash; the current ex-Beatle and former husband of Heather Mills, is, apparently, none other than Tara Browne!

The Beatles’ connection to Cyril’s jacket is more verifiable. “I’d seen a photo of Ringo wearing one of the coats in purple or burgundy in an issue of Beatles Monthly,” says Cyril, who these days pours his musical energies into his band Magic Christian


//David Wright (far left) in his F&T jacket 1976// 

“I took the magazine photo to Foster & Tara and Pops told me he still had fabric which Paul McCartney had brought back from Paris years earlier for clothes for all The Beatles. There were rolls of water silk, sharkskin and velvet in various colours. We got such a kick having jackets made from the same material and designs.”


//Sleeve shot outside Foster & Tara’s cutting rooms// 

The coats weren’t cheap, coming in at £600 apiece. “The day we picked up ours, these guys from Showaddywaddy came in to fetch their drapes,” recalls Cyril, who points out that the back and front cover photos of the Shake Some Action sleeve were taken across the street from Foster & Tara. 

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=NH8vwEQs2ZQ">http://youtube.com/watch?v=NH8vwEQs2ZQ</a>
//Roll Over Beethoven on French TV// 

The band members wore their red coats on stage for years, all around the world. Now Cyril is clearing space in his archive and is willing to sell his, an extremely rare piece and one imbued with pure rock & roll provenance.

Interested parties should direct inquiries inquiries via: thelook@rockpopfashion.com and we will pass them on.  

Dial F For Fake? Punk clothes underperform at Christie’s

Christie’s much ballyhoo-ed sale of “the finest collection of 20th Century fashion in private hands” last week achieved a respectable total of £270,000, with sales secured for 165 of the 225 items.

 
//Paco Rabanne dress: £15,000/YSL suit: £10,000//

Highlights for vendors Mark Haddawy and Katy Rodriguez, co-owners of US retailer Resurrection, included Paco Rabanne’s aluminium panelled dress fetching three times the estimate at £15,000 and a YSL safari suit achieving nearly 10 times the predicted price at £10,000. 


//Pierre Cardin cape: £5,000// 

With such one-offs as the red vinyl Cardin bubble cape attracting £5,000, the vintage business is using the sale to steady the buffs during this stormy economic period. Hence this week’s claim by Cameron Silver of LA retailer Decades that “many people are turning to vintage as a guilt-free way to shop.”  

 
//Nostalgia Of Mud and Witches dresses: £1,000 each//

Although many World’s End items attracted buyers, the Christie’s website does not record sales for more than a third of the 47 items from 430 King’s Road.

This, combined with the withdrawal of four before the sale began, underscores the increasing nervousness over authenticity of pieces purported to emanate from the shop between 1974 and 1980 in its guises as Sex and Seditionaries.

 
//Unsold: Estimate £2,000-£4,000//

Among the 18 not present in Christie’s sale results are a number previously flagged as fake by Malcolm McLaren (whose name is omitted from the design partnership he conducted with Vivienne Westwood in the online auction results).


//Unsold: Estimate £1,500-£2,500//

These include a “Destroy waistcoat” and “No Future jacket” as well as three muslin tops, a “No Future jumper” and pairs of red corduroy, serge/satin and fringed bondage trousers.


//Unsold: Estimate £2,000-£4,000//

Two challenged by McLaren were authenticated by New York Dolls guitarist Sylvain Sylvain and sold: a gilt leather hood went for £1,250 and a pink sleeveless Peter Pan shirt made £1,125.

 
//Sylvain’s hood: Sold for £1,250//

McLaren remains sceptical, describing Sylvain’s assertion that he supplied the guitarist with the hood as stage gear as “outrageous”.

Withdrawn items from the catalogue included a Chaos armband with an estimate of £100-£150 and muslin shirts which went on display in New York but did not make the journey across the Atlantic.

These were also rejected as fake by McLaren when he viewed them at the company’s starry presale which was one of the events kicking off New York Fashion Week and was attended by Agyness Dean, Chloe Sevigny and Henry Holland.

  
//Christie’s NY: Muslins withdrawn from the Avant Garde sale//

“We thought there were simply too many muslins for the balance of the sale and for the current market,” says Christie’s textiles specialist Pat Frost, who was quoted in the Financial Times 10 days ago claiming McLaren hadn’t “handled the pieces”.


//Malcolm McLaren at Christie’s presale show NY September 2008// 

The next stop is Christie’s Punk/Rock sale in NYC on November 24.

Centred on artefacts from the New York, SF and English punk scenes, the heading is something of a misnomer since the sale also features a catch-all from a 60s poster for Barbra Streisand to Frank Kozik skateboards and Kidrobot vinyl toys.


//Five ties: $2,000-$3,000/Cowboys shirt: $1,000-$1,500//

Punk/Rock has nine lots claimed to be designs from 430 King’s Road, including a number of ties ($2,000-$3,000), two Cowboys t-shirts ($1,000 – $1,500 each) and a pair of Seditionaries bondage trousers ($300-$400).

//Seditionaries bondage trousers?// 

Since the latter appear to THE LOOK to be dubious, there is little doubt that the punk-rock fakes furore ain’t going away any time soon. 

Visit here for the auction results from the Avant Garde Fashion sale.

Rowland’s radical reinvention reappraised

This Youtube clip for Kevin Rowland’s version of Concrete & Clay provides a pointer to where the style leader was taking his investigations into feminine attire before the plug was unceremoniously pulled by the collapse of Creation Records back in 1999.

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=dN-vcyNWDjM">http://youtube.com/watch?v=dN-vcyNWDjM</a>
//Concrete & Clay by Kevin Rowland//

Playing with the key dualities – black and white, purity and evil, heaven and hell – the promo (directed by Andreas Tibblin) also contains allusions to Rowland’s recovery from cocaine addiction, not least when the singer is submerged by a mound of white feathers. The transgressive air is communicated not by the fact that he is wearing a slip and panties, but more that the garb is pure white, with flesh sensuously hinted at and fleetingly revealed.


//Live at the Reading Festival 1999//

But such considerations were swept aside by knee-jerk commentary on the clothes, which Rowland had been developing into an entire collection. THE LOOK recalls encountering the singer at a film screening around this time. In an A-line apron-style skirt with zippered front and red polo-neck, he was deep in conversation with John Galliano, himself dressed in a sarong.


//Cover of My Beauty
//

The reaction to the cover of Rowland’s underrated interpretative album My Beauty revealed the inherent conservatism in indie rock circles, as preconceptions among those who held him in laddish high-regard were overturned.


//Sleeve of Concrete & Clay//

In a letter to Creation Records boss Alan McGee prior to the album release, Rowland stressed that he was “not wearing women’s clothes or trying to be a woman. I am wearing dresses because I choose to (who’s to say I can’t?)”.


//Braveheart: Men In Skirts by Andrew Bolton//

As recorded in chapter 26 of THE LOOK, Creation’s Ed Ball was pretty much alone in recognising Rowland’s stylistic statement as part of a lineage stretching back through pop fashion.

“Thirty-odd years ago David Bowie wore a dress, and look at what people like John Stephen were doing in the 60s,” said Ball. “It’s inevitable that dresses on men are cutting edge.”

However, McGee noted in Dave Cavanagh’s history of the label: “Two-thirds of Creation are disgusted with the project.”


//From S/S 09 shows by Galliano, Commes des Garcons and Etro. Pic: Imaxtree//

This uptight attitude appears thoroughly outmoded now. Reappraisal came swiftly: in 2003 Rowland appeared in Andrew Bolton’s V&A celebration Braveheart: Men In Skirts, and the cover, from Jean Paul Gaultier A/W 2001, bore a striking resemblance to one of the silhouettes the Dexy’s frontman had been promulgating.


//From The Sartorialist July 08//

With male cosmetics and transgender dress these days more widely accepted in the wake of adoption from the sublime (Antony Hegarty) to the ridiculous (Russell Brand), this summer has seen Gaultier join other designers in reviving male skirts for men on the catwalk.


//MGMT’s VanWynGarden models skirt options//

Meanwhile musicians such as Andrew VanWynGarden of MGMT revel in wearing pleated skirts, surf-minis and Kurt Cobain-style flower-print dresses.
<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=rxh_h-5eHPw">http://youtube.com/watch?v=rxh_h-5eHPw</a>
//MGMT at Billabong‘s Design For Humanity//

The My Beauty affair is ancient history to Rowland, who subsequently reformed Dexy’s for an acclaimed tour in 2003 and has more recently achieved success as a DJ and compiler of the Made To Measure Motown set. Nowadays his look channels 30s, 40s and 50s vintage shapes and cross-fertilises them with 21st Century dandy flourishes.


//Kevin Rowland portrait by Charlotte MacMillan//

In the aftermath of My Beauty, Rowland commented: “My therapist said, ‘What you’ve done is tapped into something that’s very threatening – to not be a man dressing up as woman, but wearing a dress because you want to, without trying to be feminine’.

“I think it was beautiful, in a way. The reaction to that dress was almost the same as for the Ivy League clothes on Don’t Stand Me Down, which was just as vitriolic, for wearing suits. It’s very hard for me to understand that kind of reaction. But that’s show business.”

Priceless pix from Tramp wing-ding

The Look Presents ripped it up in fine style at historic London nightspot Tramp the other night for the press launch of our new menswear collection with Antony Price: Priceless.


//Antony, Katie Hudson and Bryan Ferry. Pic: Karolina Krasuska//

Hosted by our retail partner Topman, the event was attended by Antony’s long time collaborator Bryan Ferry, columnist Nicky Haslam, designer Pam Hogg, style guru and social commentator Peter York, and uber-stylist and Kylie collaborator William Baker, all of whom appear in THE LOOK.


//Pippa Brooks, Jen Ross and Pam Hogg. Pic: Karolina Krasuska//


//Nathaniel Lee Jones and Max Karie. Pic: Caz Facey//


//Paul Gorman and Peter York. Pic: Karolina Krasuska//

Have a sticky beak at the rest of the photos here.

The Look Presents Priceless will be available online and in-store in the UK in October and in Topman’s hotly-awaited new store in New York from November.

You are invited: Join us on May 22

If you’re in London or thereabouts on May 22 please be our guests and come along to THE LOOK’s latest event: author Paul Gorman in conversation with fashion archivist, boutique designer, director and all-round rockin’ and rollin’ Renaissance man Roger K Burton.

 

 
Taking place at the wonderful Horse Hospital, kick-off is at 7.30pm, and the event will comprise:

• This month’s Contemporary Wardrobe exhibition featuring an unrivalled selection of original rebel style, including neo-Edwardian, Beatnik and Teddy boy and girl suits from the 50s, hippie, mod and rocker gear from the 60s and the finest collection of original punk clothes from the 70s – as picked out by Roger from his archive of 15,000 individual items. 

• A fashion show – featuring real live young people! And be warned: they’ll be wearing some crazy and out-there fashions from down the years! 


//Kate Moss in CW by Craig McDean// 

• A soundtrack of the greatest rebel sounds from down the years. Listen out for My Monster In Black Tights!! 

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=XjHwXIU7b0s">http://youtube.com/watch?v=XjHwXIU7b0s</a>

//David Bowie in Contemporary Wardrobe in Jazzin’ For Blue Jean 1984//  

• Roger and Paul talking through Roger’s adventures in rock and pop fashion, from Midlands Mod in the 60s, Acme Attractions, SEX, PX and Quadrophenia in the 70s, World’s End, Nostalgia Of Mud, videos and Absolute Beginners in the 80s, high end commercials, fashion shoots with the likes of Kate Moss, and more videos in the 90s, to the present day position of the Horse Hospital as London’s greatest centre for alternative and cutting edge arts. 


//Westwood and McLaren (centre): In Burton’s must-see Vive Le Punk// 

• We’ll also be discussing this month’s screening of Roger’s  startling new movie Vive le Punk which features the only filmed interview with Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood about their respective roles in one of the key creative partnerships of the 20th Century.

It’s being shown repeatedly throughout May; we urge you to catch it while you can.Do come along on the 22 – it’s gonna be fun.

Already we know of many faces and movers and shakers from rock and pop fashion who are going to rock up, so, as Kenneth Williams might say,  stop messing about and book now at: popculture@thehorsehospital.com or drop us a line here. 

See you on the night. 

Billy Bowers, Alice Cooper & Dali’s Cape Of Horrors

Billy Bowers

Associated with the San Francisco transgender performance art group the Cockettes as well as being part of that city’s Mukluk and City Of Lights communes, the amazing collage “art-wear” created by Billy Bowers racked up a major client list in the 70s, including Andy Warhol, Norma Kamali and Alice Cooper as well as members of Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Aerosmith.

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Anthony Hegarty designs for YOOX.com

Antony Hegarty for Yoox

Not satisfied with creating some of the most plangent and beautiful music of the last decade as Antony & The Johnsons….nor conducting out-of-this-world performances which leave audiences gasping for breath…nor showing up writers of long standing by concocting a terrific feature in The Guardian a few weeks back on photographer Peter Hujar…the amazing Antony Hegarty has now designed this stunning dress as part of a new venture with online boutique Yoox.com.

The dress will be auctioned on eBay on Valentine’s Day 08 with the proceeds going to the Sylvia Rivera Law Project (SRLP), the US rights organisation for people to self-determine gender identity and expression regardless of income or race, and without facing harassment, discrimination or violence.

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